Once he’s selected the best shape for his figure, here’s how to get the perfect fit.
Give the retailer time to do it right! This is no time to procrastinate until the last minute. Try to choose your tuxedos at least three months before the wedding. This will give you time to have proper fittings and make any necessary adjustments. This is your big day and you want everything to look just right.
Remember the three measurements that provide the best guidelines for an accurate fit: the overarm (around the shoulders, over the biceps, with the arms relaxed at the sides), the chest (the circumference under the armpits, with the arms down at the sides), and the seat (around the hips and rear, with no wallet in the pocket). If the difference between the coat size and waist size is seven inches or more, a made-to-measure tuxedo may be a better option than a ready-made tux, since he’ll be able to get both trousers and jacket suited to his proportions. If a jacket feels tight in the shoulders, go up a size or try a different brand, since shoulders cannot be taken out. The chest should be roomy enough to allow easy movement.
Have a tailor or friend measure from the base of your neck in back to the floor—half that distance, within an inch, is the proper jacket length for you. The jacket hem should graze the fleshy part of your thumb when your hands are at your sides, and one inch of the shirt cuff should show past the sleeve.
The neckband should allow enough room so that you can slip two fingers in when it’s buttoned. The cuff should cover the wrist.
The waistline shouldn’t be too tight or too loose, and the fabric should skim, not hug, the hips. Formal trousers are available with a flat front or a pleated front, so the fit should be appropriate to the style. The pant leg should break slightly at the top of the shoe and angle slightly downward in back.